Kumbhalgarh Fort |
The amazing walls |
Top of the wall from the fortress |
Monkey hitchhiker |
Inside our tent |
Bar |
Cocktails around the fire |
We left the
Lake Palace Hotel and began the drive towards our next destination: Jawai
Leopard Camp. Along the way we diverted to see Kumbhalgarh Fort.
On our last visit
to India, we planned to visit the fort, however it was raining that day - so we skipped it. Today
the weather cooperated, it was perfect. Kumbhalgarh is an imposing huge fort set amid massive
ramparts and surrounded by hundreds of temples. The fort is the creation of one
of Mewar's legendary heroes, Rana Kumbha. It is enormous with incredible massively thick walls. The forts walls are renowned for both their height and
thickness. It is almost like a 2-lane road on top.
As we Vijay drove us, we stopped many times to take pictures of the monkeys
sitting by the side of the road. When we stopped they would climb on to our car
and look at us through the windows. Monkeys are nasty creatures but fascinating
to watch.
We drove off the narrow 1-lane highway, on to a dirt road where we were met by Shantaram
who will be our driver. Our luggage was off loaded into his open-air jeep and
we were driven down dusty trails that barely could be followed. It was a very
bumpy ride. We finally arrived at the Jawai Leopard Camp, where we were
escorted to our luxury tent. It is like no other tent we have been in, full
shower, working toilet etc. We were warned to keep our tent entrances closed and leave no
food exposed because monkeys and other animals that will follow the scent to
the food.
Once we
were acclimated we walked back towards the Camp’s outside bar. Our tent is away
from the central area of the Camp. We each were given flashlights to illuminate
the path. There are hundreds of lanterns everywhere and local guides that lead
you from your tent to where ever you want to go.
We were
told an interesting story that there was a caste of people who were traditional
lantern lighters. The people of this cast would go from house to house cleaning
lanterns, refilling them with oil and lighting them every night. With the
advent of electricity, the people of this caste migrated to the city, as the
only way to find employment. This camp employs 3 people whose only job is to
clean, fill and ignite the hundreds of lanterns. These three people have
returned from the big cities like Mumbai and returned to the village and their
traditional jobs. Apparently, they prefer this village life to the hectic
impersonal city life.
There are
19 guests at the lodge right now. They are from all over the world: China,
Australia, Canada, England, Germany, etc. Chairs were arranged around a large
campfire. Drinks and appetizers were served as we mingled and got to know the
guides and a few of the other guests. The night is quite cold but the fire was
large enough to keep us warm.
We then all
moved to a dining area under the stars. Braziers were lit to keep us warm. A traditional
Rajasthani thali dinner was served - it was quite good. We were then escorted to
our tent by guides with flashlights. Cathy had a slight cold and decided to
skip the 6am wakeup call for our first Leopard Safari. All night long we heard
strange noises from animals creeping around our tent.
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jawai leopard safari